We've travelled over a thousand miles in the last week. Monday though Wednesday, Mum, Lucy, Jonathan and I drove up north to Northumbria and Yorkshire. These are the borderlands where the English, Scottish and Northumbrian kingdoms battled for centuries. The landscape is dotted with castles, some ruined and some comfortably inhabited. It was also a cultural and religious frontier, where early Christian monks established missionary posts and, eventually, some of the great abbeys of Britain. There are places up there I've dreamed of going to for years.
On Monday I drove all the way to Northumbria, on the English-Scottish frontier. On the way, we stopped at
Newstead Abbey in Notthinghamshire which was the home of Lord Byron's family for three centuries. His ancestors bought an old abbey church in the 16th century and canabalised much of the stone to build the manor house, incorporating some of the abbey walls into the house. We also stopped in the Yorkshire city of Ripon to see their cathedral. From there we continued north by way of the Newcastle, where I wanted to see the landmark sculpture
The Angel of the North. It's a hugely controversial work, but I like it and was excited to see it up close. We finally got to our hotel in Seahouses on the Northumbria coast at 10. Jonathan had been asking all day "What time are we getting to the hotel?", but it was so sweet we never tired of it. He was excited about sleeping on the top of a bunk bed for the first time.
Tuesday morning, we went to the Holy Island of Lindisfarne to visit the lonely and windswept ruined priory and former monastic community. Founded in the mid-seventh century, it was the bolt hold of Christianity in the north of England for centuries. It's not so lonely these days, with loads of cars lining up to cross the tidal causeway. I shall have to return one year in the winter to really get a feeling of what it was like. From there we drove 10 miles south along the coast to
Bamburgh Castle, the stronghold of the kings of Northumbria. We had a look around the historic village of Alnwick, but unfortunately we didn't have time to visit
Alnwick Castle (a filming location for Harry Potter!). So we returned to the coast road and stopped at Warkworth Castle, a ruined castle that belonged to the family of Henry "Hotspur" Percy of Shakespeare's Henry IV Part I.
After spending the night in Newcastle city centre, we drove around the historic section of the city. Newcastle gets a bad wrap - it was hard hit following the collapse of heavy industry in the northeast- but it was actually quite an attractive place and I'm really glad we had time to explore a little. This being our last day, we headed south - via the Tyne Tunnel much to Jonathan's delight - into the North Riding of Yorkshire. Our first stop was
Rievaulx Abbey. It is now a glorious ruin, but in its heyday was one of the great monastic communites in Europe. We drove through misty hills to reach it and arrived as the rain was just clearing. It was wonderfully atmospheric, all gloomy and austere, and then as we were finishing our visit, the sun came out and bathed it in light. From there we drove to
Castle Howard, surely the most beautiful building in Britain, where we toured the house and grounds. Mum wanted to drive along the Yorkshire coast so we headed east to Scarborough and Filey, then along to Bridlington and finally home. We drove across the Humber Bridge, sadly at night so all we saw of it were little red lights outlining the spans in the darkness. It was a long drive home; surely I have never been so glad to see Luton!
Thursday we went to the London Temple to visit the grounds and the LDS bookshop in the nearby village. In the afternoon, we took Jonathan on the Bluebell Steam Railway. We bought First Class tickets and had a compartment to ourselves for the 1-hour round trip. Jonathan loves trains - "What do you want to be when you grow up, Jonathan? Train driver!"- and he was so excited to see real steam engines like Thomas and Henry and Percy. After the railway, we returned to the temple to have dinner with Gwen, who is serving temple mission there this year.
I've taken lots of pictures and posted them to my new flickr account. Some of the pictures are a little wonkey, owing to an extraordinary excess of wind in the region.
Follow this link.
As you may be able to tell, I like archways, windows and doorways. And flowers. And old buildings! And my family.